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My trip to Bhutan with Druk Asia
Dear Sonam,
Thank you for your email requesting feedback on my recent trip to Bhutan with Druk Asia. I had not intended to make any comment on my visit, however, whilst staying at the Zhiwa Ling in Paro I met a pair of British travel writers on a tour sponsored by the BTCL. I met them again at Paro Airport where we shared our experiences, and they suggested I should provide some feedback to you regarding the guide for my tour, Ugyen Tenzin.
The first days in Thimbu he was excellent, ensuring that I saw the lowering of the flag at Parliament, and showing me the Chorten with particular celebrations occurring.
However:
1. Until I complained to him on Day 8 at Gangtey he never discussed the daily program with me, nor offered suggestions or alternatives. He answered questions but rarely volunteered anything.
In fact, on arrival at Gangtey around 4:00pm he announced that we would take a 2-hour hike "according to the program". I protested as I wanted to see the cranes rather than go on a hike which would have been completed in dark and leave no opportunity for the cranes. That was fortunate as when we drove on the driver spotted a pair of cranes in a field and the guide and I went to the see them. If we had stayed with his plan for a hike, I would not have seen any cranes except briefly at a long distance the next morning as we left. I had to insist that he seek permission of the householder for us to walk across her land.
2. As a guide Ugyen was never proactive in seeking out local activities. In Bumthang there were festivities to celebrate the birthday of the King. I appreciate that the state of the road made journey times difficult to predict. However other tourists staying the previous night at the same hotel as me in Trongsa made it to these celebrations in Bumthang. There guide also managed to find a local archery competition and dancing. They told me about these activities the following morning at breakfast. My guide seemed unaware of these but these were exactly the kinds of local celebrations which most interested me.
3. At the Punakha Festival Ugyen pointed out an area to go to and then said he would meet me at a designated place. He did not accompany me nor provide any ongoing explanation of the dances other than as a general overview. A policeman took me by the arm and escorted me to a place in the front row. The following day he left me in the car park and said he would meet me back there.
I also asked to look over the rest of the Punakha Dzong but Ugyen maintained it was closed for the festival. This proved not to be the case as I discovered when I explored on my own and was ushered into the main temple by a Discipline Master.
On at least two occasions I requested to wear a gho to the Festival. However, he ignored these requests and when I strongly commented afterwards, indicated that it would have been too difficult to dress me, particularly with the socks! I did notice other western tourists with a Druk Asia female guide constantly accompanying them and who were dressed in the national dress at the Festival. I would have appreciated being able to honour the Festival in this way myself. As you will be aware I ticked this option on the booking form and it is part of your publicity.
Following the Festival, we visited a local market which really interested me. However, the guide again disappeared, leaving me to find my own way whilst he engaged in gambling. I thought this was unprofessional when he was engaged to accompany me.
4. The commencement of the tour I asked about visiting a home but this never eventuated. From the outset I had pointed out to Ugyen that I was more interested in people than buildings but he insisted on rigidly following a program of Dzongs and temples until I began to decline these visits.
5. On most of the very long drives each day the guide slept in the car for the whole journey, needing to be woken by the driver when we arrived at a stop. This meant that he never pointed out things of interest on the journey. The only day he did not sleep in the car was the drive to the Haa Valley, when on the return he and the driver spoke nonstop with each other, completely ignoring my presence, until they stopped for the guide to say, "there is nunnery, you can take photo".
Initially the guide and driver played pop music quite loudly, the guide singing along with it. When I complained about that they kept the music quite low but still audible. The guide then spoke with me about the need to keep the driver awake, and mentioned an accident some time previously when a driver ran off the road leaving Paro airport.
6. When visiting a site, he gave very lengthy explanations and then just walked away. He gave me no indication where he was going, and I had to look for him, usually finding him chatting to someone he'd met, a fellow guide, or talking on his mobile phone.
7. I was severely embarrassed at the Zhiwa Ling Hotel in Paro when on arrival the guide pushed past me to take a hot towel off the tray which a member of staff was trying to offer me as the guest. He then pushed past me again to take a drink off the tray and announced to the staff member that I wouldn't be having one because of my throat. That confused the man with the tray who began to turn away. I told him there was no problem with my throat although I had a bronchial cough. I felt the need to apologies to the reception manager for his rudeness and spoke with Ugyen the next day about this. His attitude was that the local pharmacist had said I should only drink hot drinks but, as I pointed out to Ugyen, it was my decision not his to make.
8. On one occasion he decided that we would begin at 7:00am and then told me they normally worked from 9:00am-4:30pm. I then decided that we would start at 8:00am. However most mornings I was waiting at the car for the guide and driver to finish their tea or breakfast. I noticed that other guide would be waiting at their vehicles for their clients, rather than the other way round as in my case. Following the Tigers Nest hike he wanted to take me to another monastery but I declined and gave the guide and driver the remainder of the day for themselves whilst I stayed at the hotel.
9. He was solicitous about my bronchitis and the cough I developed for which I was grateful. However, I am capable of managing it myself, having all the required medication with me including a course of antibiotics.
Ugyen did ensure that I received the room in each hotel as I had requested of you prior to leaving Australia.
10. Ugyen was unwell for much of the trip with a gastric upset. This may have affected his performance as a guide. If so he should have requested that another guide take his place.
I regret that it is necessary to indicate these aspects of the journey. However, it did spoil my visit to Bhutan and made the whole experience less enjoyable and interesting that I expected. Ugyen's lack of interest and his unprofessional manner impacted negatively on my trip but I believe that it is important you have a complete picture. I make these comments because of the encouragement of the BCTL sponsored British travel writers whose experience of their guide was greatly different to mine.
Thank you for all your organization which I greatly appreciate. I should add that the hotels were very good in particular the Thimphu Towers in Thimphu, the Jakar Village Lodge, the Dewachen Hotel, and the Zhiwa Ling. The driver, Jamal, was excellent, careful and skillful on atrocious road conditions, and always cheerful.
Regrettably I would be unable to recommend Ugyen as a guide as he displayed complete disinterest in accompanying me at most of the sites, merely pointing out the general direction and then vanishing. His unprofessional attitude and his failure to consult me about any aspect of the program meant that I did not receive the service I anticipated.
Regards,
Christopher Whittall
