Are you planning a visit to Bhutan? Make sure to explore the breathtaking Haa Valley, a tranquil haven rich in culture and natural beauty. Covering 1,706 square kilometres, this picturesque valley lies southwest of Paro and is one of Bhutan’s smallest Dzongkhags. Despite its size, Haa Valley is a treasure trove of pristine forests, majestic mountain peaks, and deep spiritual heritage.
A Valley Steeped in History and Spirituality
Bordering Tibet, Haa Valley is the ancestral home of the Royal Grandmother and a region of great historical and spiritual significance. It is home to two of Bhutan’s most revered temples: Lhakhang Karpo (The White Temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (The Black Temple). These sacred sites sit at the base of Meri Puensum, a trio of hills that can be seen from homestays like Chimi’s and Ugyen’s.
The Legend of the White and Black Temples
Both temples were built in the 7th century by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo as part of his ambitious plan to construct 108 monasteries in a single day. According to legend, he released two mystical doves—one white and one black—to determine the temple locations. The white dove landed at the base of Meri Puensum, while the black one settled on a nearby lake, marking the sites of Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo.
Lhakhang Karpo (The White Temple)
Lhakhang Karpo, located at the foothills of three sacred mountains, is a striking example of Bhutanese artistry. Its intricately carved entrance welcomes visitors into a space adorned with stunning murals of Buddhist saints, deities, and masters. The temple embodies the values of compassion and Dharma, offering a profound spiritual experience.
A key annual event at Lhakhang Karpo is the Moenlam Chenmo, a week-long prayer festival dedicated to peace and enlightenment. Recently renovated, the temple retains its timeless charm while offering visitors a glimpse into Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage.
Lhakhang Nagpo (The Black Temple)
Just a short walk north of Lhakhang Karpo lies Lhakhang Nagpo, a temple shrouded in mysticism. Built over a lake, this black-painted sanctuary is associated with tantric rituals and serves as the seat of the valley’s guardian deity, Da Do Chen. Unlike its white counterpart, Lhakhang Nagpo has no monk quarters—only a lone caretaker and his fierce dog reside here.
One of the temple’s most intriguing features is an opening in the floor that leads to the lake beneath, said to be home to a mermaid spirit (tshomen). Nearby, a sacred oak tree stands as another must-see spiritual landmark.
A Journey to Bhutan’s Timeless Heart
Haa Valley is more than just a scenic destination—it’s a place where history, spirituality, and nature intertwine. Whether you’re exploring its sacred temples, admiring its untouched landscapes, or immersing yourself in Bhutanese traditions, a visit to Haa Valley promises an unforgettable experience.
Make sure to add this hidden gem to your Bhutan itinerary!
